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Domain I

Dress

After Geneviève Antoine Dariaux

From A Guide to Elegance(Doubleday, 1964). Six principles drawn from the directrice of Nina Ricci’s Paris couture salons — on how to dress, how to choose, and why it matters.

  1. I

    PrincipleAfter DariauxI

    Elegance is Selection

    Not wealth — choice.

    No woman has ever lacked elegance because of an excess of simplicity but always because of an accumulation of elaborate details or of ensembles that are badly co-ordinated or ill-adapted to the hour and the occasion.

  2. II

    PrincipleAfter DariauxII

    Quality Over Quantity

    Few perfect things, worn often.

    The cost of an item is its price divided by the number of uses plus the pleasure and confidence it gives. The marked-down item worn once is more expensive than the costly item worn constantly.

  3. III

    PrincipleAfter DariauxIII

    Self-Knowledge

    Before any choice, an honest mirror.

    To be elegant is first of all to know oneself, and to know oneself well requires a certain amount of reflection and intelligence.

  4. IV

    PrincipleAfter DariauxIV

    True Fashion vs Passing Fashion

    Anchor to the silhouette. Ignore the trim.

    True Fashion is the deep current that changes the silhouette every four or five years — the work of a particular creator, marking an epoch. Passing Fashion is the seasonal ripple concerned with details and trimmings.

  5. V

    PrincipleAfter DariauxV

    Discretion Until Eight

    The day belongs to restraint. The evening, to brilliance.

    Evening is the only time of day when a woman has the right and even the duty to call attention to herself.

  6. VI

    PrincipleAfter DariauxVI

    Chic and Elegance

    One can be learned. The other cannot.

    One baby in its crib may have chic, while another doesn't. Elegance, by contrast, can be acquired by any woman of intelligence, discipline, and self-knowledge.

End of Dress · Vol. I§Next · Interiors →